North-East India · Land of the Mekhela Chador
Assam
Assam sits in the lush north-east of India, bordered by Bhutan, Bangladesh, and the forested hills of Meghalaya. It is a land of silk, tea gardens, and the mighty Brahmaputra river — and its clothing is as graceful as its landscape.
The signature traditional garment of Assamese women is the Mekhela Chador, a two-piece ensemble that is considered one of India's most elegant draping styles. The Mekhela is the lower portion — a cylindrical cloth draped from the waist downwards — and the Chador is the upper veil, draped around the body and typically tucked into the Mekhela. A fitted blouse called choli completes the look.
What makes Assamese textiles truly extraordinary is their weaving tradition. Muga silk — a golden silk produced only in Assam — is among the finest natural silk in the world. Pat silk (white and creamy) and Eri silk (known as the "fabric of peace" because no silkworms are harmed) are also woven locally. Traditional Assamese designs feature motifs of animals, flowers, and geometric patterns drawn from nature and mythology.
The Mekhela Chador is one of the most graceful draping traditions I've encountered. When I wear it, the softness of the silk and the elegance of the drape speak for themselves. Assam's Muga silk is something truly special — that natural golden sheen cannot be replicated.
Mekhela Chador — the iconic Assamese draping style
Assam's signature Muga silk in natural golden tones
Hand-woven Assamese patterns featuring floral and animal motifs
East India · Land of Bhagalpuri Tussar Silk
Bihar
Bihar — whose name derives from the Sanskrit word Vihara, meaning 'abode' — is one of India's oldest and most historically significant states. It is the birthplace of Buddhism, where Gautama Buddha attained enlightenment under the Bodhi tree at Bodh Gaya.
Bihar's most celebrated textile contribution is the Bhagalpuri Saree, also known as Tussar silk saree. Woven in the town of Bhagalpur on the banks of the Ganges, these sarees are made from wild silk with a rich, textured finish and earthy golden hues. Bhagalpuri silk has a natural sheen that sets it apart from cultivated silks.
The traditional way of draping a saree in Bihar is called the Seedha Anchal style — meaning the pallu (decorative end) is brought to the front rather than thrown over the back. Women often use this same end to modestly cover their head. The aesthetic is one of quiet dignity and cultural rootedness.
Bhagalpuri Tussar is one of those fabrics that feels completely different the moment you touch it — that rough, raw silk texture with the natural golden color is unmistakable. I stock it because it's unlike anything else. The Seedha Anchal draping style is beautiful in its simplicity.
Bhagalpuri Tussar — Bihar's golden silk heritage
The Seedha Anchal style: pallu brought to the front
Central India · Tribal Weaving & Lugda Tradition
Chhattisgarh
Chhattisgarh is a state of dense forests, fertile plains, and extraordinary tribal diversity. Home to over 42 tribal groups — including the Gond, Baiga, and Korwa peoples — the state's textile traditions are deeply rooted in nature and community ritual.
Tribal women are famous for wearing the Lugda (a style of saree) with a Polkha (short blouse), combined with striking ornaments and jewelry that are integral to their cultural identity. The weaving of Chhattisgarh is dominated by Kosa silk — also known as Tussar, woven from wild silkworms that feed on Arjun and Sal trees unique to the region. Kosa silk has a natural, earthy golden-brown color.
The state is also celebrated for its Kotpad weaves (natural plant dyes in deep reds and blacks) and Champa silk. Ornaments — made of terracotta, bone, metal, and shells — are not just decorative but carry deep symbolic meaning tied to tribal cosmology and rites of passage.
I visited Chhattisgarh and was struck by how the women dressed with such confidence and joy. The tribal jewelry isn't just accessory — it tells stories of lineage and belonging. That picture from the vegetable market shows everyday life dressed in beauty.
Tribal women in Lugda sarees with traditional ornaments
Natural Kosa silk woven in the forests of Chhattisgarh
Polkha blouse with heavy silver and metal ornaments
Real life — a vegetable market in Chhattisgarh, photographed by Nisha
West India · Nav-Vari Sarees & Carnival Color
Goa
Goa is unlike any other Indian state — a sun-soaked coastal paradise shaped by centuries of Portuguese influence, vibrant festival culture, and the warmth of the Arabian Sea. Its fashion reflects this fascinating blend of East and West, tradition and festivity.
Traditional Goan women wear the Nav-Vari saree, similar to the nine-yard sarees of Maharashtra, draped in a way that allows ease of movement. The saree is tied in the Kashtha style — pulled between the legs and tucked at the back — allowing women to move freely. Goans also wear Kunbi sarees, the most ancient traditional textile of the original Goan inhabitants, woven on handlooms in red and white checks.
The Goa Carnival — one of India's largest and most colourful carnivals, rooted in Catholic Portuguese tradition — inspires vibrant, festive dressing. During Carnival season, women wear bold, colorful printed dresses and Indo-Portuguese fusion attire. The feast day of the patron saints and Shigmo (the Goan version of Holi) also bring out elaborate, region-specific costumes.
Goa's fashion has always inspired me — that fearlessness with color and the way Eastern and Western aesthetics blend so naturally. My dress here was directly inspired by the Goa Carnival's energy. The Kunbi saree, in particular, is something I find deeply beautiful in its simplicity.
Nisha in a Goa Carnival-inspired outfit — bold, festive, and colorful
The Nav-Vari draping style allows ease of movement
Goa's fashion blends Indian tradition with Portuguese festivity
West India · Chaniya Choli, Mirrors & Bandhani
Gujarat
Gujarat — known as the Jewel of Western India — is one of the most culturally vibrant states in India, and one of the most widely represented communities in the United States. From the vast white salt flats of the Rann of Kutch to the ancient stepwells of Patan, Gujarat's culture is as rich as its textiles.
The signature traditional attire for Gujarati women is the Chaniya Choli (also called Ghagra Choli or Ghaghara) — a full, flared skirt (chaniya or ghagra), a fitted blouse (choli), and a dupatta or odhni draped elegantly over one shoulder. The Chaniyo — a variation of the lehenga — is stitched with dazzling mirror work, beadwork, and thread embroidery. Bright colors: saffron, emerald, magenta, and royal blue dominate.
The greatest showcase of Gujarati costume is the nine nights of Navratri, when women wear their finest chaniya choli to dance Garba and Dandiya Raas. The embroidery traditions of Gujarat are world-renowned: Bandhani (tie-and-dye), Banni embroidery, Rabari embroidery, and Patola weaving (the prized double-ikat silk) are all distinct to the region.
Jewelry is heavy, artistic, and primarily in silver — wide bangles, layered necklaces, and elaborate hair ornaments complement every outfit.
Gujarat is close to my heart — the Chaniya Choli I wear in these photos is one of my favorites. The mirror work catches the light in a way that makes you feel like you're wearing celebration itself. During Navratri, the whole community comes alive in these outfits.
Chaniya Choli with signature Gujarati mirror work
Vibrant mirror work (shisha) and thread embroidery — Gujarat's signature style
Bandhani tie-and-dye fabrics in festive colors for Navratri
Heavy silver jewelry completes the Gujarati ensemble
North India (Himalayas) · Pashmina, Embroidery & Mountain Elegance
Himachal Pradesh
Himachal Pradesh nestles in the lap of the mighty Himalayas — a state of snow-capped peaks, cedar forests, apple orchards, and deeply preserved mountain culture. The clothing of Himachal reflects both the cold climate and the rich artistic heritage of its people.
Women traditionally wear a Kurta paired with a Ghagra Lehenga Choli — long, ankle-length garments with intricate embroidery. The dresses are characteristically full-length and topped with elaborate needlework in red and maroon — the traditionally dominant colors of the region.
The most iconic Himachali accessory is the Rahide — a colorful head scarf woven in various fabrics and patterns, worn by women as both adornment and cultural marker. Kullu shawls — handwoven woolen shawls with bold geometric patterns in bright colors — are recognized worldwide and are a Geographical Indication (GI) product of Himachal.
The state is also renowned for its Pashmina shawls — among the finest and softest in the world, made from the fleece of the Changthangi goat raised at high altitudes. Women wear bulky silver ornaments, and silver jewelry with coral and turquoise stones is considered traditional and auspicious.
Himachal Pradesh stopped me in my tracks when I first experienced these textiles. The Kullu shawl's geometric patterns and those deep reds — there's a majesty to mountain fashion that is unlike anything from the plains. The Rahide head scarf is so beautifully practical and ornamental at once.
Ghagra Lehenga Choli with intricate embroidery in red and maroon
The Rahide — Himachal's iconic colorful head scarf
Ankle-length garments with Himalayan embroidery patterns
Heavy silver ornaments with coral and turquoise — traditional Himachali jewelry
Mountain elegance: long kurta and embroidered choli
Kullu shawl — a GI-protected weaving tradition of the Himalayan valleys
Visit Taj Fashion, Austin TX
Find Your State's Traditional Look
Nisha stocks sarees, lehengas, and regional garments from across India. Come explore — by appointment, with her full personal attention.